Ich habe nun schon ca. 19 Tage zuerst in Feuerland und dann in Patagonien verbracht. Punta Arenas haben wir nach 12 Stunden Busfahrt und Fähre erreicht. Es scheint, man ist ins 18. Jahrhundert katapultiert worden und man merkt sofort, das ist die Stadt, den Seeleuten gehört. Kneipen soweit das Auge reicht und traumhafte Kulissen am Ufer auf riesige Berge in allen Farben. Am nächsten Tag ging es weiter nach Puerto Natales. Alle Vorbereitungen für unsere Trekkingtour wurden getroffen. Für Camping im Nationalpark war ich zu feige, zurecht! Nachts gefror das Zelt sogar von innen. Wir buchten also die Refugios, die selbst nachts gefühlt nicht wärmer waren, und kauften alles zum Essen ein, was wir in 4 Tagen und 3 Nächten für richtig hielten.
Morgens um halb 6 standen wir auf, um zum Busterminal zu laufen. Überall auf dem Weg sehen wir Guanakos und Emu’s. Condore schweben durch die Lüfte. Nach 1,5h Fahrt kamen wir beim Parque Nacional del Torres del Paine an. Wie man die Tour machen will, bleibt einem selbst überlassen, aber ja, so wie alles in Patagonien, wird man als Touri einfach nur überall abgezockt.
Nach einer 2. Busfahrt zum „Osten“ des Parks, liefen wir also Richtung unserem 1. Refugio Chileno los. Es war mehr als hart mit Gepäck und Essen, die Höhenmeter zu packen. Nachmittags ging es zum Aufstieg zum Torres. Unglaublich prachtvoll und wunderschön zeigte er sich von seiner schönsten Seite. Wir haben aber auch das schönste Wetter erwischt!
Tag 1 beendeten wir also mit über 20 km laufen.
Am nächsten Tag liefen wir mit Sack und Pack über 20km zu unserem 2. Refugio Frances. Danach waren wir bedient. Der einzigste warme Ort, war die Küche und Aufenthaltsraum im Refugio. Wir verbrachten mit 2 Amerikanern und einem Chilenen den Abend. Unvergesslich 😁😂!!!! Am nächsten Tag sollte es zum Britanico und zu unserem letzten Refugio Paine Grande gehen. Abends war ich mehr als dankbar als ich endlich aber pitschnass am Refugio ankam. Ziel war es nur noch warm zu werden. Ein Miniofen versuchte sein Bestes und jedem gerecht zu werden. Es regnete ununterbrochen ab der Mittagszeit😖…
Tag 4 sollte es zum Grey gehen.
Danach mit einem Katamaran zum Bus, der einen dann wieder nach Puerto Natales beförderte.
Fix und fertig waren wir. Etwas voreilig hatten wir bereits Bus und Hostel für den nächsten Tag in El Calafate gebucht. Viel zu früh ging es also am nächsten Morgen los. Dafür gönnten wir uns 1,5 Tage Ruhe und machten nichts.
Wir trafen uns wieder mit bekannten Gesichtern aus dem Nationalpark, Heike, Anna-Lena und Victor und verbrachten wunderbare Stunden zusammen. Einen Abend grillten wir auf chilenische Art, den Victors Eltern haben wohl einige Metzgereien in Chile. Genial!!!!☺
Unser Hostel „I Keu Ken“ hatte eine tolle, familiäre Atmosphäre, besser kann man nicht abschalten.
Was man natürlich in El Calafate nicht missen darf, der Perito Moreno. Ohne Worte…Video bereits online, Philipp hat es geschafft, die richtige Sekunde festhalten zu können.
Dann fuhren wir nach El Chaltén, Fitz Roy wartete noch auf einen Besuch von uns. Man kann tolle Trekkingtouren von dort aus machen! El Parque Nacional del Glaciares steht für alle kostenfrei zur Verfügung. TOLL, derselbe Park beherbergt Perito Moreno und da zahlt man natürlich😑…
Egal, so ist das halt. Absolute empfehlenswerte Tour ist „Laguna de los Tres“, der letzte KM mit 400 Höhenmeter ist zwar hart, aber man wird belohnt. Gigantisch!!!!!
So und wie gehts nun weiter…was mir schon länger im Kopf rumschwirrte war, wie soll ich jetzt weiter. Ich wollte bald in Santiago de Chile sein, aber zurück nach Punta Arenas, um dann in den Flieger zu steigen und halb Chile zu verpassen? Keine Alternative für mich.
Auf Bariloche hatte ich keine Lust, ich war doch nun schon so lange in Argentinen…also dann ab durch Chile.
Wir nahmen den Nachtbus nach Los Antiguos und von dort wollten wir nach Chile. Es gab keinen Bus zur Grenze, so liefen wir mit allem los und gingen zu Fuß, über die Grenze. Dabei waren Tobi, Philipp und ich, ein Paar aus Kolumbien, 2 Franzosen und 1 Südkoreaner. Plötzlich stand da ein Microbus, mit mir teilweise bekannten Gesichtern aus Torres sie fuhren nach Puerto Rio Tanquilo um die Cuevas del marmoles anzusehen, ich wollte nicht noch 7km mit meinem Backpack laufen und beschloss kurzerhand mich den Leuten anzuschließen, Philipp und Tobi gingen nicht mit. Spätestens in Santiago werden wir uns sehen, so haben wir uns verabschiedet…
Die Truppe im Bus war super. 3 Chilenen, 1 Amerikaner, 1 Engländerin, das kolumbianische Paar und ein deutsch-französisches Paar waren mit an Bord. Gegenseitig versorgten wir uns mit Keksen und Crackern. 4 Stunden ging die Fahrt, als wir ankamen machten wir uns gleich auf zu den Höhlen auf dem kristallklaren See! Mal wieder gibt es keine Worte für diese traumhafte Natur!
Grüne Papageien in Schwärmen halten sich in den Bäumen auf und so kalt scheint es gar nicht mehr zu sein, als im Süden. Der Sonnenaufgang in tausenden Farben als wäre man in einer Märchenwelt. Nein, alles echt, Patagonien!
Am nächsten Tag fuhren wir weiter über die Carretera Austral, die es echt in sich hat..eine Schotterpiste ohne Ende…nach Coyhaique. Hier möchte ich mit dem deutsch-französischem Paar weiter in ein Dorf, das von deutschen Einwanderern gegründet wurde. Ich bin gespannt…
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